The year 2020 finally brought me the opportunity to discover more of Turkey. For me, this year is great for hiking for two reasons: you can walk without the mask and you avoid crowded places. I don’t think hiking is a popular free time activity among Turks, and even if it was, this year Lycian Way definitely wasn’t the top destination among the hikers. Here is my experience of the Lycian Way: 8 days in total (7 days of walking). 135 kilometres. From Ovacık to Kaş. We took a minibus three times to skip some parts which were more difficult or we had to walk on the road for a long time.
Day 1: Nice Views, Angry Bees
The Lykian Way “officially” starts in Ovacık, that is close to Fethiye and Ölüdeniz. More specifically nearby Montana Pine Resort. If you are coming from Fethiye or Ölüdeniz, you can take a taxi to a starting point. To my surprise, there was even a taxi stop at the starting point of the Lykian Way. The taxi ride from Fethiye would cost you approximately 70 TRY (September 2020).
The first day starts with the ascend to Baba Dağ. This part can still be kind of crowded, as many people walk up the hill to enjoy amazing views of Ölüdeniz below. (If you wish, you can also start your hike on the famous Ölüdeniz beach.) Even though the hike can be difficult at the times, especially when hot, the view is definitely worth it. After you reach a certain height, you won’t be able to see the turquoise sea anymore. The path will lead you among the non-finished villas to the first small village on the Lykian Way. The village has a drinking fountain.
Rapid changes and constructions seen all over Turkey are also visible on some parts of the Lykian Way. In some places they have built a new road, or new houses, that is why the Lykian Way is changing its route in certain places. This is also the case after this first small village. For this reason, I recommend you that have an updated guide book with you and carefully follow the yellow and white Lykian Way signs. Local people are usually also very friendly and helpful.
Our first days adventures have actually started after Kirme village. That is, just when I started to enjoy the walk and think that we are ahead of time. Little did we know that the end of September is time for the honey harvest!
And we were at the right place at the right time. (Not really!) After passing the honey pickers (which were just on their lunch break) the adventure started. Angry bees! I was too slow and bees started to attack me. One of the went under my t-shirt, others between my hair. In order to get rid of the bee, I had to take of my backpack and my t-shirt. In the meanwhile more bees came. I think there is no need to say that I was panicking, screaming and running around. But the didn’t give up. There were more and more bees. Chris went to pick my belongings and they started to attack him as well. We went running for a kilometre or more in order to get rid of the bees. And (of course) we lost our way. At the end we found the Lykian Way marks again. And got five bee stings in total.
After arriving to Faralya, the teyze from the pension gave me basil “massage-remedy” for the bee stings.
Ans just when you think the adventures finished…
… another is about to start. We decided to walk down to the Butterfly Valley. (I would recommend you to visit the valley by the boat from Fethiye.) The way was… steep with some climbing involved. Sincerely, I didn’t find it so special. Beach in Kabak Köyü (Day 2) was much nicer and easily accessible in my opinion. Anyway, due to the pandemic, the beach was not crowded, which was a plus. We could only stay there for about half an hour, to avoid walking up to Faralya in the dark. Just enough for the only dog in the Butterfly Valley to pass by us and pee on my bag.